Start from a dartless block with 8 to 12cm wearing ease at bust, 6 to 8cm at hips (ease on waist does not matter much as the new side seam will be straight).*

On both back and front:

• measure 1,5 to 2,5cm from high shoulder point (red arrow) and connect it to high shoulder point
• lengthen new shoulder line by 15cm (marked in red)
• drop 1 to 1,5cm from shoulder end (blue arrow)
• connect the new point to new shoulder point to create a shaped line
• draw the new hemline 14 to 17cm below waistline and 4cm wider than original side seam.

*Our method for drafting perfectly made to measure basic blocks, choosing wearing ease and for fitting them is included in our basic blocks course/module 1.

Square up from hemline to create the new side seam, making sure back and front match in width.

Draw the new armholes quite flat and measure them. Note down the measurements as we’ll need them to draft the sleeve.

Mirror front to have it full, then draw a vertical line 6 to 8cm past center front. This line is where you’ll place buttons and buttonhole.

Draw vertical lines at 1,5cm span from the red one, one line on the left and one on the right of it, to define front edges. The area included in between the blue and purple line is the button stand and will be traced on both front pieces.

Trace back, left and right front as indicated by the arrows.