Start from a dartless bodice with 12 to 16cm wearing ease at bust circ, hip length.
*Our method for drafting perfectly made to measure basic blocks and for fitting them is included in our basic blocks course/module 1.

On both back and front:

• widen neckline by 1cm at shoulder and center front, 0,6cm in center back
• raise shoulder point by 1,5 to 2cm, then connect to high shoulder point and lengthen line by 15cm or desired measurement (blue arrows)
• drop new shoulder end by 2cm (as pink arrow) and draw the new shoulder shape
• drop armpit level by 3 to 5cm
• widen by 4 to 6cm from side seams and redraw armholes much flatter than the original ones
• mark notches on armhole: measure from uppermost point 7 and 8cm on back and 12cm on front
• adjust length to 10 to 15cm below waist or desired measurement.

Draw yoke lines:

• on back, a horizontal line 5 to 7cm above new armpit level
• on front, a horizontal line 10 to 13cm above armpit level.

Trace separate copies to get:

• back yoke, to be cut on fabric fold
• back, to be cut on fabric fold too
• front yoke, grainline parallel to center front
• front, grainline parallel to center front.

Make sure to trace armhole notches too.

On both front and back, mark notches for pleats at hemline. I suggest notches 4cm apart for 2cm pleats, first couple of notches 12 to 15cm from center and then at 6 to 8cm span.