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Evening dress with bardot neckline

4.5/5

A new pattern for an evening dress that can be used for bridal and cocktail dresses too - either by changing fabric type and/or slit or by changing skirt length.

It has a cut at waistline, bodice has a classic paneled structure (we recommend to add bones to seam allowances) and the ruffle attached at neckline chinches shoulders in a very romantic and flattering way.

To draft the pattern, start by drawing a contoured block (block with zero wearing ease) - our method for drafting and fitting made to measure patterns is fully explained in our basic blocks course/module 1. You will learn in depth also how to manipulate darts, add volumes and a lot of pattern transformations that will take your pattern making skills to a higher level ;)

Step 1

Trace back and front separate, adjust length to ground, then draw a line 5 to 8cm above knee line and at that level take in 2cm from center back and side seams – this makes a flattering mermaid style. Blend the line to hip level.

Flare 10 to 15cm from sides at hemline and 30 to 50cm at center back, lengthening it by 20 to 50cm to create the train.

Square down from waist dart apexes, then on back add 10 to 15cm flare to each side of the line and blend it to knee level.

Cut through waistline to separate bodice and skirt, then trace a copy of skirt pieces separate.

Step 2

On back bodice, reduce dart by 2cm and take that amount in from center back blending to zero at neckline.

On front bodice, highlight underbust line and make sure waist dart is shaped ‘as a rocket’ to fit underbust. All about ‘rocket-shape’darts in our module 1.

Notice that skirt panels were all traced separately. Do not worry about hemline now, we’ll shape it properly later by checking the whole shape.

Step 3

Merge all skirt pieces together in a temporary way matching lines from knee to hem and check hemline all at once: start at 90° from new center back and draw a curve to side seam, blending into front hemline.

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