Step 1
Draw a line from bust point to 1-2cm below the neckline in center front, cut through this line and close the existing darts to transfer their volume.
Fake tie collar
To draft the pattern of this bodice with built-in tie collar, start from a basic bodice with darts.
You can learn our method for drafting perfectly made to measure basic blocks (contoured ones, and the ones with wearing ease) and for fitting them in our basic blocks course/module 1.
Step 2
Once you have all the dart volume into the new position, extend this piece by 3-4cm to have room enough for the gathering to be hidden underneath a knot.
Step 3
Prepare the collar pieces: a classic two pieces collar (menstyle) will be perfect, just mind not to add any cm for button stand, as left and right sides meet in the center.
Draw also a strip few cm longer then your neckline to be wrapped around the collar (i imagines it folded in half lengthwise) and a little piece that creates the front knot hiding the gathering).
Step 4
Your pattern is ready!
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