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Flared coat with wide collar

4.5/5

Style analysis: A-line trench coat with drop shoulder, hidden button closure and statement details - 2 pieces collar with dramatic stand (collar edges almost reach waist level) and 2 pieces sleeve rounded at side. Wide fabric belt with metal buckle, smaller belts at sleeves.
We would also add in-seam pockets or welted pockets.

Fabric: medium weight cotton, twill, chintz, technical fabrics/waterproof, or even denim, vinyl, lightweight fake leather, taffeta..depending on the style you want to get. It's possible to make it with or without lining.

Yardage: we suggest 2 times coat length + sleeve length + collar.

Draw a basic block with darts and 12 to 14cm ease at bust circ - our method for drafting perfectly made to measure basic blocks is included in our basic blocks course/module 1.

Step 1

Trace back and front separate and adjust length to 10cm above ankles.

Flare 8 to 14cm from side seams blending to armpit.

On front, draw the button stand as 2 parallel lines, one 2cm inwards from center front and one 2cm outwards from it.

Square up and down from dart apexes and cut through the lines, all the way to the shoulder.

Step 2

Cut through button stand line to separate it (you’ll get a piece 4cm wide).

Close shoulder dart transfering its volume at hemline, then open through back slash line a matching volume.

Step 3

On back, draw a line 2cm above shoulder line to raise it.

On front, draw a line 2cm below shoulder line to drop it.

Extend both new lines outwards by 5 to 8cm, then drop new shoulder point by 2cm on back and 3cm on front. Connect to new shoulder line and blend the corner.

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