Start from a basic block with darts and 8 to 10 cm wearing ease at bust circ – you can learn our method for drafting perfectly made to measure basic blocks (contoured ones, and the ones with wearing ease) and for fitting them in our basic blocks course/module 1. You will learn in depth also how to manipulate darts, add volumes and a lot of pattern transformations that will take your pattern making skills to a higher level.

Draw the underbust line (red one here), then on front draw the slash line from bust point to center front 2 to 3cm above underbust.

Adjust skirt length to 20cm above knee or desired measurement, then flare skirt side seams by 3 to 6cm, blending at hips or slightly above them.

Cut through underbust line and slash line.

Now get bodice and draw the new neckline.

On back, neckline is 3 to 5cm deeper than original one in center back and 4 to 7cm wider from high shoulder point.

Match shoulder measurement on front and draw the V neckline (slightly rounded) ending in center front 2 to 3cm above slash line.

Close underbust dart opening its volume into the slash line (this originates the volume and drape for the bow).

Cut through the new necklines.

On front, draw a small quarter of a circle with radius 1,5 to 2cm at center front underbust, to create the small keyhole opening below the bow.

Then lengthen neckline and underbust line by 50 to 60cm and draw the bow shape (you can end it with a slanted slash line as shown).

Mark grainline on front bodice as a parallel to neckline, to prevent it from gaping.