Front cutout top


Let's draft together the pattern for this sexy top. It has front cutouts and underwires.

Our pattern study is intended for non stretch fabrics, that's why we kept shoulder/bust dart. It needs a side or center back zipper.

Start from a basic block with zero wearing ease and darts.

If you use stretch fabric as lycra is, you can start from a basic block without bust dart - but keep in mind that the breast will be a bit flattened. In that case start from a block with negative wearing ease.


Step 1

Make a copy of your basic bodice with zero wearing ease.

On back, discard the dart half from center and half from side. Lower 1-1,5cm from armpit on side seam, then draw the neckline coming up to center back at right angle.

On front, lower the same amount on side seam. Draw the underbust line as shown in this post  at step 1: radius of the circle is half of bust distance -1cm. Change the waist dart making it 3cm wide all the way from waist to circle.

Step 2

Other then the circle, draw the cup line as step 2 explained here.

Mirror the front and draw the cup line from one side to the opposite shoulder. Trace a copy of the cup, closing the shoulder dart on the second side.

Step 3

On the cup copy, draw a slash line toward side to manipulate the other shoulder dart, then erase the lower dart to change it into gathers.

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