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SewingLab

Milano

SewingLab

Milano

Gathered mini dress

Our new tutorial is for this fully gathered dress. One cool detail is the front buttoning going all the way up to shoulder line, the other one is the interesting use of volumes: gathers are in bodice, skirt, ruffle and sleeve giving different effects even though all pieces are cut in same fabric.

To draft the pattern, start from a basic block with darts and wearing ease minimum 8cm at bust, 6cm at waist, 2 or 4cm at hips - depending on the fabric you'll be using. The one you see in the photo is a lightweight satin.

You can learn our method for drafting perfectly made to measure basic blocks (contoured ones, and the ones with wearing ease) and for fitting them in our basic blocks course/module 1. You will learn in depth also how to manipulate darts, add volumes and a lot of pattern transformations that will take your pattern making skills to a higher level.

Step 1

On both back and front, first draw the horizontal lines:

  • 2 to 4cm above waistline, to divide bodice and skirt
  • for the new hem, approx 50cm below waistline
  • for the hem ruffle, 4 to 5cm wide.

Cut through the lines to separate the pieces.

Step 2

On front bodice, draw a slash line from bust point to center of shoulder line and cut through it.

Close the original shoulder dart and open its volume into the new one.

Step 3

Widen the neckline by 2 or 3cm at shoulder line on back and front, then draw the new round neckline on back and V neckline on front.

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