Start by drawing a contoured dress (= dress with darts and no wearing ease), ground length.
You’ll only need half back and front because the pattern is symmetric.

On both back and front:

• first draw the corset upper line starting from side seam 1,5 to 3cm below armpit, back is slightly curved and ends in center back about 3cm below new armpit level. Draw the front line slanted to achieve a V shape, apex is 3 to 5cm below underbust level
• then draw corset lower line starting at right angle in center back and front 4 to 6cm below waist level, then curve to reach side seam 15 to 18cm below waist. Curve is more flattering if a bit more arched on back and a bit more flat on front
• draw a line about 5cm above knee level and taper skirt 1,5cm to 2cm inwards at this level both at side seams and center back, blend to zero at hips
• flare at hemline by 8 to 14cm at sides
• flare 12 to 20cm at center back, then lengthen the line by about 25cm to have a small train.

*Our method for drafting perfectly made to measure basic blocks (contoured ones, and the ones with wearing ease) and for fitting them is included in our basic blocks course/module 1.

Draw the neckline (blue line) from high shoulder point to center front at upper corset line. Neckline is just barely curved as a parenthesis – it looks almost straight. Draw the halter neckline from new armpit point at front side seam to shoulder line 1,5cm from high shoulder point. You’ll get the cup piece.

Redraw side seam (red lines) taking in 1,5cm at waist to have a 6cm waist reduction (this will make the dress a bit less comfortable but very waist cinching – looking like the image). When redrawing side seams blend to original ones approx at dart bottom apex, to be able to erase skirt section of front and back darts (depending on the body shape you can decide to keep back dart for a better fit).

Now highlight underbust line (shown in pink) and make sure it fits underbust circumference with no ease.

*If you’re interested in corsets you can check our basic blocks course/module 2.

Redraw center back taking in 1cm at waist, blend to zero at hips and 5cm below neckline (red line).

Then measure the new back waist (including dart) and divide the measurement by 3, find 2 points and square up and down from them to reach corset edges. Use those lines as middle lines for new darts (total dart width should match original dart width). Make sure dart width is balanced also at neckline and bottom line.

Repeat the same process on front too, then adjust waist dart at underbust on cup to meet underbust circumference.