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SewingLab

Milano

SewingLab

Milano

Halter neck flared dress

Style analysis: elegant knee-length bridal gown. The bodice features a halter neckline with gathered details at neckline creating a keyhole cutout at the center front, adding a touch of sophistication. Gathers are held by a pearl necklace. The waist is subtly defined with a gentle dart manipulation (half dart volume is manipulated into volume at hemline, while half remains at the dart to highlight the waist section), and the skirt falls smoothly, creating a clean and minimalist silhouette.

Fabric: soft, flowing fabric, likely silk crepe or satin. You could also use georgette for a lighter look, and silk satin as lining.
The look is perfect for a modern, understated wedding and it could be working also for other ceremonies or formal events.

You can learn our method for drafting perfectly made to measure basic blocks (contoured ones, and the ones with wearing ease) and for fitting them in our basic blocks course/module 1. You will learn in depth also how to manipulate darts, add volumes and a lot of pattern transformations that will take your pattern making skills to a higher level.

Step 1

Trace your basic dress with darts and no ease at bust and waist, 2 to 4cm ease at hips.

Adjust length, then flare by 10cm from sides blending to zero halfway between waist and hip levels.

Draw the front overlap by adding 3 to 4cm past center front, then using the same measurement from center front inwards draw the halter neckline ending to side seam 2cm below armpit. Make sure you have enough coverage above bust point at shoulder dart (this style is quite high so I suggest at least 12cm).

Draw the second line of front bodice starting at front overlap at neckline, crossing center front 3 to 5cm above bust point and ending 2cm above waistline at side seam.

Step 2

Cut through back neckline, then continue the line separating bodice and skirt: the line starts at side seam 2cm above waistline and ends in center back approx 3cm below waist.

Widen dart at neckline by 0,5cm on each side to have bodice tighter to chest.

Flare center back skirt by 5 to 8cm, then square down from dart apex to hemline.

Cut through slash line that separates bodice and skirt.

Step 3

Cut through back bodice dart and discard it, then trace a copy of the piece by smoothening lines.

Draw grainline as a parallel to center back.

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