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Halter neck mini dress

4.5/5

Style analysis: short dress with halter neck on front and open back up to waistline. Spaghetti straps start at neckline and extend on back to side seams at armpits to hold front bodice. The dress combines a dart manipulation at underbust on front with classic panel construction on back.

Fabric: any medium weight woven fabric, either with or without stretch. You can add lining for a great finish - if so, we suggest lightweight viscose lining.

A quick make that is perfect for summer! Start drafting a basic dress with darts and zero or negative ease depending on the amount of stretch the fabric has - learn how to measure it and how to calculate the right negative ease (in %) with our basic blocks course/module 2.

Step 1

Trace back and front separate and adjust length to 15 to 20cm above knee or desired length – a long dress with slit would also make a cool option!

On front square down from bust point to hemline and cut through the line, close shoulder dart shifting its volume at hemline.

On back, cut through waistline and separate bodice and skirt.

Step 2

This is the result of dart manipulation on front.

On back, reduce waist dart by 1,5 to 2cm and discard this amount from center back to shape it – this helps making the dress tighter to body and following back curve.

Square down from back dart to hemline and cut through the line eliminating dart volume: you’ll get 2 separate pieces.

Step 3

So back is now made of center back and side back panel. Label them and mark the grainline on each as a perpendicular to waistline.

Draw the new neckline on front:

  • drop 3 to 5cm from armpit point along side seam
  • draw the square upper section of new neckline 3 to 4cm wide, 7 to 9cm below high shoulder point
  • then connect new armpit point to the point you just found, and finish drawing the neckline in center front with a plunging shape approx to bust level. If you use an accessory to close front as the small belt shown in the image, measure it before drafting the pattern so that the span matches half accessory width (i.e. small belt is 7cm long, draw the neckline on pattern 3,5cm wide). Otherwise you can create a short fabric strap.

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