Start by drawing a basic block without darts and 10cm wearing ease at bust – we’ll drop shoulders later. More about loose styles is included in our basic blocks course/module 2.

Raise the whole back shoulder by 1 to 2cm and drop front one by the same amount.

Drop armpit points by 3 to 5cm and widen by 3 to 5cm, then make hiplines 1,5cm shorter than new bust lines for a slightly V shaped jacket.

Lengthen center back by 15cm past hipline, lengthen side seams by 4 to 5cm past hipline and draw the curved hemline ending in center front approx 5cm below waist level. Make sure you have right angles in center front and back.

Erase the old shoulder line, the new one here is marked in red. On both back and front raise shoulder points by 1 to 2cm and redraw shoulder lines from original high shoulder points to new shoulder points.

Lengthen the new shoulder lines (blue) by 7 to 9cm, then drop their new outermost point by 1,5 to 2cm to draw a gentle curve that mimics shoulder roundness (purple line).

Draw the new armhole and measure it on both front and back.

On front, draw the pocket line approx 18cm long (identify bust point and move down & out 1,5 to 2,5cm to find pocket upper point, then pocket is slanted a few cm outwards).

Trace a copy of full back and front and cut through the lines.

On back:

• drop 15cm from nape point and square across to find the yoke
• from outermost shoulder point, come in 3 to 5cm and draw a small curve ending at yoke line, this is back shoulder detail
• draw the hem detail 8 to 10cm wide from center back to side seam
• draw the side panel line from yoke 6cm before armhole to hem detail, a bit slanted inwards.

Front:

• draw shoulder detail starting from shoulder outermost point and coming in 12 to 14cm, ending approx halfway in armhole
• draw a parallel to center front removing half of your zipper width (most likely 0,5c to 0,7cm)
• draw front hem detail starting at side seam with matching measurement to back and ending in center front 3cm smaller
• draw pocket bag starting from pocket line: pocket bag extends 3cm past pocket line upwards, downwards and toward side seam and ends in zipper line.

Before tracing all pieces separate and cutting them, make sure each piece has grainline marked (either parallel to center front or back) and is labeled, not to misplace them.