SewingLab

Milano

SewingLab

Milano

Hooded jacket

Pattern characteristics: built-in hood, single breasted closure, welted pocket with flaps.

Style analysis: classic jacket featuring a built-in hood instead of collar. The rest of the jacket is plain, with side panel and no side seam, single button, welted pockets, 2 pieces sleeve.

Fabric: any suiting fabric, wools, or other medium weight woven fabrics as denim, corduroy...

Step 1

Start from a basic block with darts and 8 to 10cm wearing ease at bust and waist circ, 6cm at hips, waist darts only, then:

  • raise shoulder points by 0,5cm and redraw shoulder lines for shoulder pads (red lines)
  • drop armpit level by 0,5 to 1cm
  • widen side seams by 0,5 to 1cm to have 10 to 12cm wearing ease on bust and waist circ
  • redraw hemline 4 to 6cm below hip level
  • on front only, draw a line parallel to center and outwards from it by 1,5cm (purple line)

Trace the basic sleeve, then:

  • raise cap by 0,5cm and redraw it for having room for shoulder pad
  • drop armpit and widen from inseam to match armhole on bodice
  • add 4 to 5cm total at wriste level and redraw inseams.
Step 2

Now work on the sleeve to turn it into a 2 pieces sleeve:

  • square down from back notches (red line)
  • draw a dart 3 to 4cm wide at wrist, ending in the red line at elbow level
  • draw a line parallel to front inseam and 2 to 4cm inwards

Then cut through the slash lines and discard dart, then merge small sleeve pieces at inseam by moving front section as shown by green arrow.

Now you have 2 separate pieces, but they still need to be manipulated a bit.

Step 3

Draw horizontal darts at elbow level that end at back sleeve line and are 1cm wide at front line – closing these darts will create the sleeve curve.

Cut through the lines and tape darts closed.

Trace a copy of the new shapes, marking grainline as the ones coming from top part. Don’t forget notches.

Step 10

I suggest to add staytape to hood edge and shoulder lines, interlining also to upper back, pocket are on side panel and the whole hemline. I recommend a full lining for the best finish.

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