Draft or trace your basic block with darts with at least 10cm wearing ease at bust circ.
Our method for drafting perfectly made to measure patterns and for fitting them is part of our basic blocks course/module 1.

Shorten back and front to 5 to 7cm above hip line or desired measurement and on both pieces wide neckline by 1cm, then:

• on back, move 5cm from high shoulder point along shoulder line and draw a slanted line to waist, 10 to 12cm from center, then redraw waist dart using this slash line and erase previous dart
• on front, draw a parallel to center front 4 to 7cm from it to create the double breasted closure
• still on front, draw a slash line from bust point to high shoulder line (at matching distance to back). Cut through the slash line and tape shoulder dart closed.

Cut through the new necklines.

Cut through back slash line and discard the dart to get 2 separate back pieces.
Center back will be cut on fabric fold, side back has grainline perpendicular to waistline.

Get front: now shoulder dart is closed and manipulated into the slash line.
Cut from hemline upwards discarding waist dart volume to separate center front from side front panel.
Also side front has grainline perpendicular to waistline.

Draft the collar pattern:

• measure the neckline on back and front
• draw a straight horizontal line as the sum of those two, splitting them with a notch (back, notch, front)
• from right edge of the line (center front) raise 1,5cm for collar slope. Connect this point to the notch with a very flat curve
• draw a line 3 to 4cm above and parallel to the straight line on back and to the curve on front collar
• trace the collar separate and round a bit center front upper edge (see the copy past the big red arrow).

Make sure your bodice pieces have all the information (notches, grainlines, names).