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Jacket with built-in collar and statement sleeves

4.5/5

Let's draft this interesting pattern. You could use the collar and sleeve details to create an endless number of other garments, as blouses or dresses, or even a coat.

To draft the pattern, start from a basic block with darts and matching sleeve.

Make sure to choose a fabric with a slightly stiff hand as faille, gabardine or taffeta, or to add a stiff interfacing as double organza, as the sleeve shape needs to be supported.

Step 1

First, widen neckline by 3 to 5cmon both back and front.

Then, connect the new shoulder point to center front and center back and raise a perpendicular from each edge 3 to 4cm long.

Draw the new neckline connecting the raised points, then move center back and center front edges outwards by 1,5cm.

Widen from side seam 4 to 5cm at hip line, blending to zero to waist.

Step 2

Draw the slash line for princess dart on back and front measuring 5 to 7cm from side collar point, ending in original waist dart.

On front, draw the slash line for pocket 6 to 10cm below waistline and shorten the dart to pocket line.

Step 3

Cut on back and front slash lines all the way from neckline to hemline.

Pivot at hemline as needed to have a 2cm space at bust/chest level.

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