Jacket with built-in collar and statement sleeves


Let's draft this interesting pattern. You could use the collar and sleeve details to create an endless number of other garments, as blouses or dresses, or even a coat.

To draft the pattern, start from a basic block with darts and matching sleeve.

Make sure to choose a fabric with a slightly stiff hand as faille, gabardine or taffeta, or to add a stiff interfacing as double organza, as the sleeve shape needs to be supported.

Step 1

First, widen neckline by 3 to 5cmon both back and front.

Then, connect the new shoulder point to center front and center back and raise a perpendicular from each edge 3 to 4cm long.

Draw the new neckline connecting the raised points, then move center back and center front edges outwards by 1,5cm.

Widen from side seam 4 to 5cm at hip line, blending to zero to waist.

Step 2

Draw the slash line for princess dart on back and front measuring 5 to 7cm from side collar point, ending in original waist dart.

On front, draw the slash line for pocket 6 to 10cm below waistline and shorten the dart to pocket line.

Step 3

Cut on back and front slash lines all the way from neckline to hemline.

Pivot at hemline as needed to have a 2cm space at bust/chest level.

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