Let's see the steps to draft the pattern for this interesting jacket.
It features an asymmetric front with a cutout, a band at neckline and one at waistline, welted pockets and an open back.
It's a great piece for an occasion - especially if you create the suit look with matching pants.
You can use any medium weight fabric: as always, we recommend staytape to the necklines and fusible interfacing if you need to reinforce some areas.
Start from a basic block with darts and wearing ease - we suggest 8cm at bust circ, 6 at waist, 4 at hips.
You can learn our method for drafting perfectly made to measure basic blocks (contoured ones, and the ones with wearing ease) and for fitting them in our basic blocks course/module 1. You will learn in depth also how to manipulate darts, add volumes and a lot of pattern transformations that will take your pattern making skills to a higher level.
Trace a copy of front and raise shoulder point by 1,5cm for the ‘square shoulder’ effect. Redraw shoulder line.
Reduce waist dart by 0,5cm on each side to create the side dart: first draw the pocket line 7 or 8cm below waistline, starting 1,5cm before first dart and extending it for 14cm. Then draw the side dart ending into the pocket line and in direction of the armhole upwards.
Cut through the waistline from side to second dart.
Draw a slash line from shoulder center to bust point and cut also through this line.
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