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Long sleeve top with cups

4.5/5

Let's draft together the pattern for this top with long sleeves and cups

It has an interesting combination of details: on front, the upper part frames the breasts and has a built-in facing. There's a classic cup (you can find all details about its construction here) and a tight, long sleeve. You could add shoulder pads for a more dramatic look.

Start from a basic block with darts and little to zero wearing ease as you should get something very tight.

We suggest to use a woven, slightly stretchy fabric and foam as intermediate layer for cups.

Step 1

Trace a copy of back and front bodice until a line approx 15cm below waistline.

On back, discard the dart: 2/3 is taken from center back, 1/3 is taken from side seam.

On front, draw the underbust line and redraw waist dart 3cm wide at underbust. Reduce from side as much as you did on back to match the slope, then redraw waist dart matching the amount you took at side.

Step 2

On front, draw the cup position (all details for cup construction are explained in this tutorial) – make sure this shape matches the underwire shape.

Then draw the neckline as a slanted line from the wire line to the neckline/outer part.

Step 3

From front, trace a copy onto which you cut through all lines to separate the pieces and close the darts.

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