Start by drafting a block with 0 to 2cm wearing ease on bust and 2 to 4cm ease on waist and hips.
You can learn our method for drafting perfectly made to measure basic blocks and for fitting them in our basic blocks course/module 1.

Highlight underbust line and make sure front waist dart is shaped at underbust as in contoured blocks 😉 see the blue lines.

Draw the slanted underbust line slightly curved – starting in center front 2 to 4cm belowbust level, meet dart at underbust, continue towards side seam reaching it 2 to 4cm below underbust.
Continue the line on back starting from side seam at matching level to front, meet back dart roughtly at waist level and center back 2 to 5cm below waist.

Flare skirt from sides by 8 to 14cm, blending to zero at hip level or just above it.

Now work on back and draw the back bra-like closure as follows:

• start in center back at underbust level or 1 to 2cm above it, square across approx to the dart, then curve downwards to meet the previous line at side seam. This way you drew the bottom line of the closure
• draw another line starting in center back 2 to 3cm above the previous one, square approx to the dart, then curve the line a bit to reach side seam 1 to 4cm below armpit.

Move to front and draw a line parallel to slanted underbsut line and 4 to 6cm below it. It should end approx at waist on side seam.
Then draw the cup line on front (green lines):

• start at side seam at matching level to back (1 to 4cm below armpit) and draw a line that passes close to armpit and ends approx halfway in the armpit length, 4 to 5cm inwards. This is the cup side
• from this point, draw a straight or slightly curved line to center front where the slanted underbust line started. Keep shoulder dart closed to draw the line so that you have it smoother. Make sure to give enough coverage at bust level (I suggest minimum 6cm.

Still in center front, draw the cutout line (blue line) approx 3cm wide and 4 to 5cm long – it should end around waist level.

Lastly, widen shoulder dart by 1cm at the new neckline (red line) to make cup tighter to chest.

Now draw the shoulder strap starting on front from cup uppermost point, ending halfway on shoulder line, continuing on back starting at matching point and ending at dart.

Cut through back pieces or trace a copy of back bodice and skirt.