Draw your contoured block (= block with no ease added) with darts and full length.
Our method for drafting perfectly made to measure basic blocks is included in our basic blocks course/module 1.

Trace back and front separate, then taper 2 to 3cm at knee line (or, better, 5 to 10cm above it), blending at hips. Flare at least 15cm from sides at hemline, connect to new point at knee, then redraw hemline starting at right angle (90°) from side seams.

Merge back and front in a temporary way from waist to armpit and draw the new neckline:

• start in center back 5cm below waist
• meet back darts approx at waist level
• curve upwards and meet side seam approx 10 to 12cm below armpit
• continue on front with a steep line, the corner is 3 to 5cm away from armhole line and 10 to 12cm above bust level
• square across to center front (still 10 to 12cm above bust level).

Widen shoulder dart by 1cm at new neckline.

Cut through the new neckline and eliminate upper part.

Erase waist dart and discard a matching amount from side seams, redrawing them.

Trace a mirrored copy of front upper part (the one you just drew). Copy the last 8 to 12cm to create a built-in facing.

A built-in facing is usually created for cowl necklines as it is an extension of front that folds inside the neckline itself and prevents wrong side of fabric from showing + has no seamline at neckline, making the drape more beautiful.

Your new pattern is ready! Make sure to cut both back and front on bias (grainline at 45° angle).