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SewingLab

Milano

SewingLab

Milano

Mermaid knot dress

Pattern characteristics: dart manipulation and knot construction.

Style analysis: long, fitted dress with drape at waist creating a knot, mermaid skirt with front sleeves and long balloon sleeves in pleated fabric.

Fabric: satin, crepe or other light to medium weight fabrics. I suggest polyester if you want to have some of the fabric pleated for the sleeves, or you can have them plain and then choose natural fibers as silk.

Step 1

Start from a dress block with darts and 8cm wearing ease at bust, 6cm at waist, 4 at hips.
*You can learn our method for drafting perfectly made to measure basic blocks, for choosing wearing ease and for fitting them in our basic blocks course/module 1.

Adjust length to ground, then on back and front:

  • draw the new neckline widening it by 7 to 9cm from high shoulder point. Drop 4 to 5cm in center back, add 3cm past center front and draw the neckline, then continue the line blending to original one past hip level (red lines)
  • take in 2cm from sides and center back 10cm above knee, then redraw seams on thigh area as the light blue lines
  • flare 10 to 15cm in center back at hemline and 5 to 8cm at sides, redraw skirt bottom seams as the purple lines.
Step 2

On front bodice, widen shoulder dart by 1cm at the new neckline (red line).

On both front and back, draw the raglan slash lines (marked in blue) starting from new necklines 4 to 5cm from shoulder and ending into armholes 6 or 7cm above armpit.

Trace also the basic sleeve and widen it so that hemline matches armpit line.

Draw a cuff as a rectangle whose longer side is as original sleeve hemline and shorter side is 8cm. Mark grainline parallel to the long side.

Step 3

Trace back and front separate, then cut through the raglan lines.

Save those two small pieces as we’ll merge them to the sleeve.

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