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Midi dress with wrap bodice

4.5/5

Style analysis: Jersey dress with bardot neckline, draped collar and wrap bodice. Plain midi skirt gathered at waist.

Start drafting the pattern from a basic block with darts that fits you. We suggest zero or negative wearing ease depending on the stretch of the fabric you use - a full explanation on wearing ease is covered in our basic blocks course/module 1. Lots of pattern manipulations for stretch fabrics are included in our basic blocks course/module 2.

With both modules you can learn our method for drafting perfectly made to measure basic blocks (contoured ones, and the ones with positive or negative wearing ease) and for fitting them! You will learn in depth also how to manipulate darts, add volumes and a lot of pattern transformations that will take your pattern making skills to a higher level.

Step 1

Start by tracing back and front separate, then adjust length to mid calf (or desired measurement – full length would also look great and make a stunning dress for winter parties!).

Mirror front to have it full, then cut through waistline.

Step 2

Take back and front bodices:

  • on back, drop nape point by 4 to 6cm and find shoulder midpoint. Draw the new neckline connecting the points
  • on right side of front, find shoulder midpoint. On left side seam, raise 7 to 9cm from waist. Draw the new neckline connecting these two points.
    The intersection of neckline with center front gives you neckline depth
  • on front, widen right shoulder dart by 1cm at new neckline
  • still on front, where underbust line meets left waist dart, straighten its legs.
Step 3

On back bodice:

  • erase waist dart
  • take in 2 to 3cm at center back waist, blending to zero at new neckline point in center back
  • take in 1,5cm at side seam at waist  and blend to zero at armpit.

On front, draw the collar 10 to 14cm wide, bending to zero at underbust line at left waist dart.

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