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SewingLab

Milano

SewingLab

Milano

Mini dress with statement sleeves

We're on the Barbie trend with this pink mini dress! It has interesting stylelines that can be recreated also in different lengths and materials.

To draft the pattern, start by tracing a copy of your basic block with darts and zero ease if you use a stretch fabric or basic wearing ease (8cm at bust, 4 at waist, 2 at hips) if you use a non stretch fabric. Reduce ease to 4/2/0 if you prefer a tighter dress or if your material has a little stretch.

Our method for drafting made to measure blocks and understanding ease is included in module 1 of our course, check the program here!

Fabric: I suggest crepe (silk, polyester or a blend) if you like the crisp appearance of the fabric, and then add organza to the sleeves as interlining to hold the volume. Another good option - maybe even better - would be silk faille or taffeta, as they have a stiffer hand - this means they would hold the volume by themselves, without adding any inner structure. A cool option would be lace with organza backing...so many good options to choose among!

Step 1

Trace back and front, then adjust the length.

Draw the new armhole line by measuring up from shoulder point 5 to 6cm and dropping 2 to 3cm from armpit point.

Extend the new armhole outwards by 2 to 4cm.

Draw underbust line on front.

Step 2

Draw the new side seam from the new armpit point to waist.

On back, draw the princess line to manipulate waist dart.

On front, draw a slightly slanted line from center front 2cm below underbust line to side seam 4cm above underbust line, then draw one more line more slanted, from 6cm below waistline in center front to underbust line on side seam..
Square down from dart apex.

Step 3

Cut through all lines to separate pieces:

  • center back
  • back armhole
  • side back panel
  • front bodice, cut through underbust dart to close shoulder one
  • front armhole
  • front waistband (tape dart closed)
  • center front skirt
  • side front skirt.

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