Mom jeans with long darts


To draft the pattern of this jean, start by tracing a basic trouser. We suggest having 2 to 4cm wearing ease at waist, 6 to 8cm ease at hips and crotch level dropped by 1,5 to 2,5cm.

You could sew it denim, gabardine or any other medium weight fabric. Contrasting topstitching add an interesting detail - pick a thick thread as cotton 50 for it.

Step 1

Trace back and front with appropriate wearing ease, then adjust length to ankles.

Adjust bottom measurement so that back is 21 to 23cm and front is 18 to 20cm at hemline. Taper to the knee or mid-thigh.

Step 2

On back, draw a line parallel to waist and 5cm below it.

On front, erase original dart and draw 2 smaller darts (do not change the total amount taken): one dart is 1 or 2cm closer to center front than the original one, the second dart is 4 to 5cm apart.

On front, draw the line 5cm below waistline only from second dart towards side seam.

This way you created back and front waistbands.

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