Off shoulder draped dress


Style analysis: midi dress with bardot neckline and waist cut. Wrap bodice with side gathers that absorb dart volume, straight skirt gathered at waistline. Inseam pockets.

To draft the pattern start from a basic dress with darts and 4 to 6cm ease at bust, depending on the fabric you are using - how thick it is, if it has some stretch, if you will add lining.

Our method for drafting perfectly made to measure basic blocks, for fitting them and for changing them into a million different styles is fully explained in our basic blocks course/module 1.

Step 1

Start by tracing a copy of your basic block, back and front separate.

Adjust length to 10cm above ankles, then mirror both back and front to create the wrap bodice.

Step 2

You only need half back skirt and half front one to create skirt pattern. You can use the other half, shortened, to create the pattern for lining.

So, for fabric: extend back and front skirt patterns by multiplying by 2 waist measurement and erasing waist dart. This way you will get 100% more volume to be gathered – if you work with lightweight, soft fabric as crepe or satin you can increase this to 3 times waist measurement. If you use a stiffer fabric as non stretch denim or haberdashery fabric you can reduce to 1,5 times.

Trace a copy of back and front skirt patterns with the new volume and mark gathers at waistline. Mark also pocket position starting 7 to 9cm below waistline. Pocket opening should be approx 15cm.

Step 3

Get the full front bodice, a copy of basic sleeve and half back bodice. Merge all pieces in a temporary way by matching armhole notches and draw the new neckline from right armpit on front bodice, passing 8 to 10cm above bust points on front, passing 4 to 7cm below shoulder point, then all the way through the sleeve and back bodice ending in center back 6 to 12cm below nape point.

Then on front widen both shoulder darts by 1cm at the new neckline.

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