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SewingLab

Milano

SewingLab

Milano

One shoulder and 22 panels dress

Style analysis: one-shoulder, asymmetrical gown that features a fitted bodice with vertical paneling, for a structured and elegant silhouette. The dress has a single, large ruffle accent at the shoulder, which adds a dramatic flair. The skirt is designed with layers of tulle that cascade down to the hem, creating a voluminous and flowing silhouette. The hem of the dress extends into a subtle train, adding to its sophisticated and formal look.

Fabric: must be lightweight, giving the dress a delicate and ethereal feel. Can be either tulle or organza, in both cases a backing with nude fabric is needed in the bodice.

Step 1

Trace your contoured dress* (=dress pattern with darts and zero wearing ease) and mirror both front and back for the asymmetric styleline.

Then:

  • lengthen both pieces to the ground
  • draw the bodice bottom line from 10 to 13cm below waistline on right side seam to 10 to 15cm below hipline on left side
  • draw the skirt hemline from 10cm above knee on right side to ground on left side seam.

*Our method for drafting perfectly made to measure basic blocks (contoured ones, and the ones with wearing ease) and for fitting them in our basic blocks course/module 1. You will learn in depth also how to manipulate darts, add volumes and a lot of pattern transformations that will take your pattern making skills to a higher level.

Step 2

Cut through the lines to separate skirt, then draw evenly spaced vertical lines (we suggest to divide skirt width by 8, then to square up and down).

Number the pieces (not to misplace them when adding volume), then cut through the lines from hemline upwards.

Step 3

Space front skirt pieces by adding at top line as much as each piece’s width (for 100% gathers – this measurement is adjustable, if you want a fuller skirt you can add more) and 3 to 4 times this measurement at bottom line.

You’ll get something like the piece labeled as ‘front’ in this image.
Once you’re happy with the result, repeat the process for back skirt using the same proportions.

Trace a copy of the new skirts.

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