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One shoulder bias dress

4.5/5

Bias is always a big thing to face: it's harder to sew and even to draft as wearing ease is a bit more difficult to foresee, but bias dresses often look and feel great - so it's worth experimenting ;)

To draft the pattern of this dress, we suggest starting from a basic dress with darts with 4cm ease on each circumference. Pick a non-stretch silk satin for a luxury dress.

Step 1

Trace a copy of back and full front (for the asymmetric neckline), then:

  • erase all waist darts
  • take in 2cm from center back at waist, 1 from back side seam at waist
  • take in 1cm from front side seams at waist – blend to zero at hips and armpit
  • taper skirt at knee by taking in 1,5cm from side seams and center back
  • flare skirt at hemline by adding 10cm at side seams and 20cm in center back
  • add extra length in center back for the train, blend to zero past side seam (see next step).
Step 2

Merge back and front at bottom part of side seam in a temporary way and draw the train/hemline starting with a right angle in center back.

Step 3

Draw the new neckline:

  • in center back, start at waist and end on side seam 3 to 5cm below armpit
  • on front, start from a matching point on right side seam and end at high shoulder point of left side (make sure you give enough coverage – minimum 10cm above right bust point)
  • still on front, start approx from middle point of left shoulder line and end on left side seam – at a point matching to back. Try to be close to natural armhole.

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