Start from a contoured block (dress block with darts and no wearing ease) or few cm ease if fabric has no stretch and you want a little more comfort (think about 1cm at bust, 2cm at waist, 3 or 4cm at hips).*

Mirror back and front to have the full pattern, then on back and front:

• widen neckline by 3cm from left high shoulder point, and draw a smooth line to right side seam at armpit
• on front only, widen right shoulder dart by 1cm at new neckline
• redraw left armhole moving inwards 3cm from left shoulder point, blending to zero at armpit
• shorten dress to ankle length.

*Our method for drafting perfectly made to measure basic blocks, choosing wearing ease and for fitting them is included in our basic blocks course/module 1.

Get back and take in 1cm total at waist from center, blend to zero at nape and hip.

Trace separate copies for left and right back and mark grainline perpendicular to waistline on both pieces.

Trace front up to new neckline, then:

• mark 4 evenly distributed points along right side seam in the wait to armpit section
• draw a slash line from second point from top to bust point (marked in red) to manipulate shoulder dart
• mark 4 points along left shoulder line
• connect outermost point on shoulder line to bust point (marked in blue).

Cut through red and blue slash lines and close shoulder darts. Notice how volume changes.