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One shoulder top

4.5/5

Style analysis: asymmetric top with one shoulder. Curved panel on right side, french dart slanted towards waist on left side. Peplum that extends in side tails.

Fabric: woven medium weight with zero to little stretch, as crepe, cady, or medium weight knits as ponte. In both cases, pay attention not to stretch neckline and armhole when sewing.

Draft the pattern starting from a basic dress with darts and 0 to 4cm ease on bust circumference, depending on the fabric you use and the fit you prefer.
You can learn our method drafting perfectly made to measure basic blocks (contoured ones, and the ones with wearing ease) and for fitting them in our basic blocks course/module 1.

Step 1

Trace front up to waistline and mirror it.

Highlight underbust line and make darts 3cm wide at underbust, shaping them as rockets toward bust points.

Trace back and mirror it too.

Step 2

Merge front and back on right shoulder line and redraw armhole by shortening shoulder line by 2 to 3cm. You can keep original armpit point or drop it by 1 to 2cm.

Cut through the new armhole line.

From new armhole line (approx 8cm above armpit), draw a curve ending to right bust point for the princess cut.

Cut through the line, then tape right shoulder dart closed.

Step 3

Now let’s work on french dart:

  • measure 5 to 8cm from waist along left side seam
  • connect this point to left bust point
  • cut through the line and tape left shoulder dart closed.

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