SewingLab

Milano

SewingLab

Milano

Oversized jacket/skirt

Pattern characteristics: hidden buttoning, drop shoulder, 2 pieces collar.

Style analysis: oversized shirt with drop shoulder, accents are the wide collar and the shoulder and cuff details. Classic front closure with. hidden buttons.

Fabric: crepe, cady, heavy satin or other medium weight woven fabric. Interlining is needed for structuring collar and cuffs.

Step 1

Start from a dartless block with at least 10cm wearing ease at bust circ*, then:

  • make waist length the same on back and front (reduce front length, increase back one so they both have the average waist length measurement)
  • on both pieces, raise shoulder points by 1,5 to 2cm (red arrows)
  • connect new shoulder points to original high shoulder points, then lengthen new shoulder lines by 4 to 7cm (red lines)
  • drop new shoulder ends by 1,5cm and connect to new shoulder points (blue lines) to create dropped, slightly rounded shoulders.
Step 2

Now on back and front:

  • drop armhole level by 2cm
  • widen by 2 to 3cm at new armpit level, then redraw side seam merging to original one before waist level (blue line)
  • draw new armholes (red lines) much flatter than before, then measure the new lines (you’ll need them for drafting the sleeves. Mark notches starting from shoulder, one notch 10cm below shoulder on front and 2 notches, one at 10 and one at 11cm, on back.

On front only, draw a parallel line to center front 1,5cm outwards from it – this will be the shirt edge and 1,5cm is half of button stand width. Then draw 3 more lines outwards at 3cm span (3cm is the whole button stand width).

Step 3

Measure back and front neckline on the basic pattern, then add to front 1,5cm as the distance from center front to end of button stand. Draw a horizontal line in this measurement and mark notches that split section.
Square up from left edge which will be center back.

Draw a horizontal line 3cm above the previous one ending at center front notch, then close with a curve to button stand end. This way the collar band is almost ready, just drop 0,4cm from middle front to create a soft curve (blue notches, see next step for the curves).
Move up 2cm more in center back and mark a notch (marked in red).

Draw a very flat curve from the red notch to center front at upper line of collar band, this is bottom line of collar stand. Choose stand width in center back (I suggest 5 to 6cm), then draw the collar stand making front edges quite long (8 to 9,5cm to have a style similar to the inspirational image). Try the points not to be too sharp or sewing will be harder.

Redraw the curves on front section of collar band and trace collar band and stand separate.

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