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Oversized jacket with double collar

4.5/5

Style analysis: maxi jacket/coat with a militar attitude - double breasted, with yoke, patch pocket with flap and waistband.

Fabric: medium to heavy wools, boiled wool, denim, leather...so many options available, depending on the season! If you opt for a winter version, we suggest to add interlining for warmth and lining for comfort! Denim or cotton twill versions can be unlined and be spring coats ;)

Draft the pattern starting from a basic bodice without dart with 10cm ease at bust circumference - the first manipulation is to drop the shoulder. Our method for drafting this type of pattern is fully explained in our basic blocks course/module 1.

Step 1

Trace back and front to hipline and separate them, then:

  • on back, raise shoulder line by 2cm and lengthen it past shoulder point by 8 to 10cm
  • on front, drop shoulder line by 2cm and lengthen it past shoulder point by 8 to 10cm (matching back measurement).

Shifting shoulder line towards front is needed in all garments with drop shoulder and oversized fit.

Step 2

On back, redraw neckline too (2cm above previous one) and drop new shoulder point by 2cm.

On front drop new shoulder point by 3cm.

Redraw outer part of both shoulders slightly curved, to accomodate the shape of your shoulder (not dropping shoulder tip makes the sleeve stick out in an awkward way).

Step 3

On both pieces, drop armhole by 8 to 10cm and widen by 5 to 8cm to get the oversized look.

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