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SewingLab

Milano

SewingLab

Milano

Oversized jacket with pleat

Pattern characteristics: oversized jacket with pleat detail on front, back detail with lots of volume, japanese-inspired sleeves.

Style analysis: short and loose jacket with a modern and oriental inspiration, with back and sleeve details.

Fabric: any medium weight woven fabric, with a good structure and drape. Brocade, twill, denim, haberdashery fabrics, but also leather will work!

Step 1

Start from a basic bodice without darts and 10cm wearing ease at bust. Trace back and front separate, trace sleeve too (we’ll work on it later).*

On both back and front raise shoulder point by 1,5 to 3cm and connect to high shoulder point, then lengthen this line by 13 to 15cm past new shoulder point (red line). This is the construction for new shoulder lines.

Now draw the new hemline (here marked in purple) 8 to 12cm below waistline. Widen 5 to 7cm from side seams and extend hemline by 10 to 12cm past center front.

*Our method for drafting made to measure basic blocks is part of our basic blocks course/module 1.

Step 2

Now drop 1,5 to 2,5cm at the end of the new red line, and connect it to new shoulder points. This way the new shoulder lines (marked in red + blue) are done.

Connect outermost point of shoulder lines to outermost point of new hemline.

Step 3

Along these new lines mark a notch 10 to 13cm above waist level: these notches divide side seam from armhole section.

Draw the new armholes quite flat (think about a parenthesis shape that comes inwards by 1 to 1,5cm in the middle armhole section).

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