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Oversized military coat

4.5/5

Style analysis: oversized coat with rounded edges at collar and double lapel, details at shoulder and short raglan sleeves.

It can be realized in different fabrics depending on the effect you prefer: for something similar to the photo you cann take a heavy wool, boiled wool or wool blend. Another option is for a version for mid-season, for which you can choose a trench coat weight, or you can lenghten the sleeves to have something for full winter, and it can be sewn in shearling too!

Draft the pattern by tracing a copy of your dartless block with matching sleeve - instructions are part of our basic blocks course/module 1. Raglan sleeves and more styles are covered in our basic blocks course/module 2.

Step 1

Trace back and front separate and adjust length to knee.

On both back and front:

  • drop armpit point by 5 to 6cm
  • add 5 to 6cm outwards at armpit level
  • straighten side seam from the new armpit point perpendicular to hemline.

You can add more cm if your fabric is very thick or you want an even looser style 😉

Then work on center front:

  • lengthen neckline outwards by 10 to 14cm
  • lengthen hemline outwards by 5 to 6cm.

Join the new points with a straight line.

Step 2

Get the basic sleeve and drop armpit points by 2 to 3cm (roughly the half of dropped measurement on bodice).

Add 8 to 12cm to each side of the sleeve to increase bicep circumference – measure sleeve cap and armhole to match.

Step 3

On back:

  • drop 4 to 5cm from shoulder along neckline, and draw a straight line ending 5cm above armpit level
  • connect the two points with a straight line, then find its midpoint and square up 1 to 1,5cm, draw a rounded line passing through this point
  • trace separate copies as the pieces overlap: back ends to the upper/curved line, shoulder area ends to the lower/straight line.

On front:

  • drop 5 to 6cm from shoulder along neckline, and draw a slightly curved line ending 5cm above armpit level
  • cut through the line to separate the pieces (there’s no overlap on front).
Step 8

Add a 2 pieces collar, a waistband and a shaped piece for the shoulder detail, then your pattern is ready ! You should have:

  • shoulder detail, approx 4*25cm, cut 4 in fabric (left and right, inside and outside)
  • sleeve, cut 2 in fabric
  • sleeve cuff, cut 2 in fabric
  • back, cut 1 on fabric fold
  • front, cut 2 in fabric
  • waistband, from side seam towards front, approx 6*60cm, cut 4 in fabric (left and right, inside and outside)
  • 2 collar pieces, cut 2 of each piece in fabric (inside and outside)
  • facing, cut 2 in fabric (left and right)
  • bigger lapel, cut 1 in fabric (right side only)
  • smaller lapel, cut 2 in fabric (right side only, inside and outside).

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