Trace back and front separate and adjust length to knee.

On both back and front:

• drop armpit point by 5 to 6cm
• add 5 to 6cm outwards at armpit level
• straighten side seam from the new armpit point perpendicular to hemline.

You can add more cm if your fabric is very thick or you want an even looser style 😉

Then work on center front:

• lengthen neckline outwards by 10 to 14cm
• lengthen hemline outwards by 5 to 6cm.

Join the new points with a straight line.

Get the basic sleeve and drop armpit points by 2 to 3cm (roughly the half of dropped measurement on bodice).

Add 8 to 12cm to each side of the sleeve to increase bicep circumference – measure sleeve cap and armhole to match.

On back:

• drop 4 to 5cm from shoulder along neckline, and draw a straight line ending 5cm above armpit level
• connect the two points with a straight line, then find its midpoint and square up 1 to 1,5cm, draw a rounded line passing through this point
• trace separate copies as the pieces overlap: back ends to the upper/curved line, shoulder area ends to the lower/straight line.

On front:

• drop 5 to 6cm from shoulder along neckline, and draw a slightly curved line ending 5cm above armpit level
• cut through the line to separate the pieces (there’s no overlap on front).

Add a 2 pieces collar, a waistband and a shaped piece for the shoulder detail, then your pattern is ready ! You should have:

• shoulder detail, approx 4*25cm, cut 4 in fabric (left and right, inside and outside)
• sleeve, cut 2 in fabric
• sleeve cuff, cut 2 in fabric
• back, cut 1 on fabric fold
• front, cut 2 in fabric
• waistband, from side seam towards front, approx 6*60cm, cut 4 in fabric (left and right, inside and outside)
• 2 collar pieces, cut 2 of each piece in fabric (inside and outside)
• facing, cut 2 in fabric (left and right)
• bigger lapel, cut 1 in fabric (right side only)
• smaller lapel, cut 2 in fabric (right side only, inside and outside).