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Oversized tuxedo jacket

4.5/5

Style analysis: a cool variation of men's formal dress. This tuxedo jacket keeps the formal details as the shawl collar in shiny fabric and the two pieces sleeve, but has a twist given from the loose fit and the sheer back and sleeve.

We suggest medium weight satin or cady for front and facing and organza for sleeves and back.

To draft the pattern, start from a basic block without darts and matching sleeves - you can learn our method for drafting perfectly made to measure basic blocks (with darts and dartless ones, contoured ones, etc) and for fitting them in our basic blocks course/module 1. You will learn in depth also how to manipulate darts, add volumes and a lot of pattern transformations that will take your pattern making skills to a higher level.

Step 1

Trace front and back together, merging them at armpit – do not shape side seam at waistline, keep the rectangular silhouette.

On both back and front:

  • raise shoulder point by 1cm
  • redraw shoulder line from high shoulder point to the new shoulder point, then lengthen by 2 to 4cm for the oversize fit
  • redraw armhole merging at original line at armpit.
Step 2

Cut through side seam line to separate back and front.

On front:

  • lengthen shoulder line towards center by 2cm
  • connect this point to center front at waistline to draw the roll line (line where front folds back creating the lapel).
Step 3

Lengthen roll line upwards by back neckline measurement, then square left by 3cm. Connect this point to the original one and make sure the line measures as back neckline.

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