Paneled corset with draped collar


Let's draft the pattern for this corset with bardot neckline: the interesting part is the construction of panels that create a built-in shawl collar with pleats.

Trace a copy of your contoured bodice (block with darts and zero wearing ease) to start. We suggest using a woven, medium weight fabric as taffeta or duchesse with interlining (fusible or tundra as you prefer). We also recommend full lining ;)

Step 1

Trace a copy of your bodice, then extend it 6 to 9cm below waistline in center front, blending to waist point on side.

Draw the plunging neckline in center front 2 or 3cm below bust line, then measure up 7 to 9cm along dart legs for enough coverage (adjust the measurement according to your breasts size).

Drop 2 to 3cm on side seam on both front and back, then draw the new nwckline.

Step 2

Highlight underbust line in front piece and widen waist dart so that it is 3cm both at waist and underbust – only on front.

If you need to further shape underbust, curve inwards side seams at its level.

Cut through the neckline but do NOT throw the upper part.

Step 3

Use back dart to separate center back and side back panel.

On front, draw 6 slash lines to identify 7 panels  – draw also one slash line for manipulating shoulder dart a bit sideway.

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