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SewingLab

Milano

SewingLab

Milano

Paneled dress with cups

Style analysis: midi paneled dress with contrasting topstitching. The bodice features a very feminine cup-like cut, making the bodice look similar to a corset but without all the bones and wires. Flared skirt, wide straps complete the look.

Fabric: medium weight denim or other medium weight woven fabrics, from faille to taffeta for a dressier look, to plain cotton twill for an easier option.

Step 1

Start by tracing your basic dress with darts and zero to 4cm wearing ease depending on the fit you prefer and the fabric you’re using.
Our method for drafting made to measure patterns and a full explanation on cup and corset construction is covered in our basic blocks course/module 2.

Highlight underbust line on front and make sure waist dart is 3cm wide at it and at waist.

Adjust skirt length to mid calf or desired measurement, then flare skirt at center back, center front and side seams by at least 5 to 10cm. Blend to zero at waist in center back and front, at waist to hip section on sides.

Step 2

Draw the back neckline by dropping 1 to 2cm on side seam and 2cm more in center back.

Draw the sweetheart neckline on front starting on side seam at matching level, then raising to have enough coverage above breasts at shoulder dart (we suggest at least 7cm above bust level), then drop towards center front where neckline stops a couple of cm above bust level.

Draw also the slash line on front, slanted from bust point to hemline.

Step 3

Merge back and front in a temporary way on shoulder line and draw shoulder strap by identifying shoulder midpoint and being across it. Shoulder strap is about 3cm wide, starts from front 2 to 3cm from armhole and ends on back neckline approx at dart position.

Cut through the neckline and shoulder strap lines.

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