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Pants with side pleats

4.5/5

Style analysis: an unusual trouser style with no side seam, shaped seams at front and side pleat. Front and back are merged at side and manipulated to create this cool pattern.

We suggest medium weight woven fabrics with zero to little stretch. Pick something a with a crisp hand and a little stiff if you like the pleat to stand as in the photo. Some options are denim, canvas, leather or fake leather, corduroy...

Start drafting the pattern from any trouser block that fits you - we recommend 4cm wearing ease on waist circumference and 4 to 6cm on hip circumference. Ease can be adjusted depending on the fabric you choose and the fit you prefer.

Step 1

Trace back and front separate, and adjust the length to ground.

If your trouser block is a classic one, widen 3 to 5cm on each side at knee level and 4 to 6cm at hemline, or straighten from crotch point at inseam and hip point at side seam.

Step 2

Then:

  • on both back and front draw a line 3 to 4cm below waistline and parallel to it: this creates the waistband
  • on back, measure 3 to 4cm from bottom waistband line on side seam and 7 to 8cm on center back, then draw a curved line connecting these two points. This creates back yoke.
  • on front, draw a straight line from hip line in center front to dart point at waistband line
  • still on front, draw a curved line parallel to bottom part of crotch curve 3 to 4cm from it, then the line continues as a curve passing through dart apex and ends on side seam 3 to 4cm below waistline (match the point with back yoke).
Step 3

Merge back and front at side seam upper part to make sure waistband and yoke lines are continuous and smooth, then draw measure 8 to 10cm from crotch point at inseam and draw a small curve on back ending on crotch line befpre hipline and a longer line on front ending on waistband line 5 to 6cm past side seam.

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