Start from a basic dress with darts and 8 to 10cm wearing ease at bust, 5 to 6cm at waist, 4cm at hips – ease can vary according to your fabric and fit preferences.*

Draw the new neckline dropping 4 to 6cm from nape point in center back and 2cm from back high shoulder point along armhole, same measurement on front armhole, then keep the original neckline point in center front.

*Our method for drafting perfectly made to measure basic blocks, choosing wearing ease and for fitting them is included in our basic blocks course/module 1.

On front, draw the slash line for manipulating shoulder dart starting from bust point and ending at armhole 5 to 8cm above armpit.

On both front and back, adjust length to mid calf or at chosen measurement and taper skirt by 2cm at sides from hemine to 10cm above knee, then slowly blend to zero at hips.

Trace back to the new lines.

Trace front closing shoulder dart and opening a matching volume in the new slash line, then adjust neckline shape if needed (see red lines). Redraw dart so that apex is about 3cm away from bust point.

On both back and front, draw the blue lines needed to manipulate the sleeve in a raglan-like style. This is needed as the very wide neckline would not hold plain sleeves 😉
So, measure 2,5 to 3,5cm along neckline starting from armhole, and draw new armhole curves merging to original ones 4 to 6cm above armpit level (i.e. try not to change the section that is concealed under the arm when wearing the dress).

Cut through the new slash lines or trace copies of the small sections.

Mark grainline parallel to center back and front on fabric fold.