‘Play with grainline’ dress


Style analysis: midi dress with waist cut, flared skirt and fitted bodice. Cape sleeves and slanted cut on bodice for playing with stripes direction, triangular panel on skirt with same purpose. Challenging to cut means...Lots of fun!

Fabric: plain or basket weaves woven fabric, cotton, linen, polyester or blends in medium weight to have a little structure.

Draft a basic dress with darts and 8cm wearing ease at bust, then follow the steps.
You can learn our method for drafting perfectly made to measure basic blocks (contoured ones, and the ones with wearing ease) and for fitting them in our basic blocks course/module 1.


Step 1

Trace back and front separate and mirror both to have the full dress.

Adjust length to mid calf or desired measurement.

Lengthen all shoulder lines by 4 to 6cm and drop new shoulder points by 2 to 3cm.

Draw a line connection new shoulder point to riginal shoulder point and round it a bit in the transition toward shoulder line.

Step 2

Notice how shoulder area is shaped for the cap sleeve. Redraw also all armholes to the new shoulder points.

Measure 4 to 5cm from armpit points along side seams and draw a slash line on back, then match measurement and draw the slash line on front too.

Flare skirt by 10 to 15cm minimum.

Step 3

Cut through slash lines and separate bodice upper parts (back and front), then tape shoulder darts closed on front.

Draw a slanted slash line from previous slash line on left side seam to waist level on right side. Keep darts closed when drawing lines for a smooth transition.

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