Merge bodice and trouser patterns leaving a space between them (= vertical wearing ease to be able to sit and walk comfortably):

• take back trouser, extend crotch line upwards and measure 5 to 7cm from center back above it. Place back bodice on the point you just found and make sure its side ends 3 to 5cm above trouser side seam
• then take front trouser, extend crotch line upwards (line should be parallel to grainline, while it was slanted on back – it is correct) and place front bodice in a way that space between bodice waistline and trouser waistline matches to back measurement. You’ll get a different distance in center front, it is right – just make sure center front bodice is on grain.

Trace a copy of the new shapes of back and front. Adjust length and hemline width if needed, then cut through knee line.

1. Draw 2 slash lines on back, first line is 2cm before shoulder point and second line starts 4 to 5cm past it. Both lines are curved and end at knee level 2cm on sides of grainline (middle trouser line).
2. Draw 2 slash lines on front, starting from matching points on shoulder line and ending 2cm on sides of grainline (middle trouser line). Curved lines will not pass exactly through bust point, so draw a short slash line from bust point to first slash line.
3. Still on front, draw the button stand 3cm wide: to create it, draw 2 lines 1,5cm away from center front, one inwards and one outwards.

Cut through all slash lines, so you get:

• back: place bottom part first, then extend grainline upwards and place middle piece on it spacing them by 1 to 2cm. Pivoting on inseam and side seam, place center and side pieces trying to balance the volume added at shoulder line (measurements should be similar, not identical as pleats stop before shoulder line)
• separate button stand from front
• front main piece: place bottom part first, then extend grainline upwards and place middle piece on it spacing them by 1 to 2cm. Pivoting on inseam and side seam, place center and side pieces trying to balance to back the volume added at shoulder line (measurements should be similar, not identical as pleats stop before shoulder line).