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Pleated sleeve trenchcoat

4.5/5

Let’s draft together the pattern of this oversized trenchcoat, that combine quite classic details with an extremely wide and long sleeve with elbow pleats.

You could use any  middle weight fabric, as gabardine, cotton twill, cotton/silk or cotton poly blends, jaquard…

Start from a basic block without darts.

Step 1

First, on both front and back, raise the shoulder tip by 2-3cm and extend the shoulder line by 5-7cm.

Lower the armpit  by 3-5cm and widen the whole jacket by 8-14cm, drawing a straight line as the side seam or flaring it a bit if you prefer this style.

Then, on front move 7-9cm outwards from center for the overlapping, for last draw the collar.

 

Step 2

Get a basic sleeve and raise the sleeve cap as you raised the shoulder tip, lower and widen at the armpit as you did on the bodice.

Extend the sleeve by 18-22cm as it will cover the hand.

Step 3

Get front and back, measure the armhole and make sure it matches with the sleeve cap. If not, adjust the sleeve.

Step 4

Separate the collar from the front.

On front, draw the yoke (light blue line) and the facing (red line).

Step 5

Trace collar, facing and yoke separately.

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