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SewingLab

Milano

SewingLab

Milano

Pleated sleeves dolman shirt

Let's prepare the pattern for this classy and stylish shirt.

The dolman construction is taken to the next level by adding a slash line that creates a front yoke, and some other lines to add pleats to the sleeve part.

A mandarin collar, concealed buttons and a bold color do the rest to create this statement piece ;)

To draft the pattern, start from a basic block with darts and 10 to 12cm ease at bust circumference.

You can learn our method for drafting perfectly made to measure basic blocks (contoured ones, and the ones with wearing ease) and for fitting them in our basic blocks course/module 1.

Step 1

Trace a copy of back and front.

First, erase both waist darts as the shirt is quite loose at waist.

Then  on front draw a slash line:

  • from bust point down to the waist, perpendicular to waistline
  • from a point on shoulder line (5 to 6cm past high shoulder point) to bust point, slightly curved as a princess seam.
Step 2

Cut through the front slash line to separate front and yoke and close shoulder dart on it.

 

Step 3

Get a basic sleeve, extend it by 2 to 4cm and widen the bottom to match sleeve bicep circumference.

Cut the sleeve in the middle.

Step 8

Cut through all lines and spread the pieces by 2 to 4cm at yoke line.

You will need to open them also a tiny bit at the other edge, but keep this part as small as possible.

Trace a copy of the new front. Mark pleats and gathers.

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