Step 1
Trace back and front separate, then adjust length to 5cm above ankle.
On back side seam identify a point 5 to 7cm below armpit and connect it with center back at neckline. Then measure 10 to 12cm from side seam along this new line, mark a point and connect it to high shoulder point or to a point 2cm past it.
Repeat the same on front with matching measurements, keeping shoulder dart closed in a temporary way when drawing the lines.