Start from a basic jumpsuit <8bodice block + pants block merged, spacing them 4 to 6cm at waist).
All details about made to measure trousers and jumpsuits patterns are included in our new basic blocks course – module 3.

Then:

• highlight underbust line (pink)
• widen neckline by 2cm on both back and front and connect this new point to center back and center front (blue lines), then draw parallel lines 2,5cm above the previous ones for collar stand
• on back, draw an L shaped slash line (marked in red here) roughly from new neckline mid point to armhole midpoint, passing through shoulder blade outermost point (in the half of back width). We’ll use tis line to add a little volume for the collar
• on front, draw the plunging neckline ending 2 to 5cm above waistline and ending at bust level at 1,5 to 2,5cm span from center front
• continue front neckline creating the curved upper line for the cup, passing 6,5 to 8,5cm above bust point. Continue the curve at least 3cm past shoulder dart.

Keep working on front and draw the raglan line from new neckline 3 to 4cm from high shoulder point to bottom part of the armhole.

Then draw the neckline that starts from the built in collar line, is almost parallel to raglan line and continues in the bottom line of the cup, where underwire is. Finish this line 1 to 1,5cm above underbust, at front plunging neckline.

Now work on trouser bottom section. On front and back:

• first draw horizontal lines 4 to 6cm below crotch lines
• then raise 1 to 2,5cm in each line midpoint and draw the actual hemline slightly curved as shown in the image
• draw the new side seam if you want to give a little extra volume to high hip: move out 1,5cm from side seam 7 to 8cm below waist and pass through this point with very soft curves, merging to original side seam at hemline and waistline.

Cut through slash line on back bodice as in next step we’ll add volume to the collar.