Start tracing a copy of your bodice block with 12 to 16cm wearing ease at bust and waist circ and 8cm ease at hips. You’ll also need a copy of a matching basic sleeve (to turn it into a raglan sleeve).
*If you want to deepen this topic: raglan, saddle, dolman sleeves are part of our basic blocks course/module 2.

Draw the horizontal slash line (here marked in red) 2cm below underbust level and lengthen it by 4 to 5cm past center front (for the double breasted closure).
Divide the measurement of this front line by 4 and check if you can divide back line measurement by 3,5 and get the same result. If not, adjust the amount you lengthened past center front to get all even sections.

Once you’re ok with the measurement and split, connect last point of the line to high shoulder point with a straight line (marked in green). Find its midpoint, square left 1 to 1,5cm and draw a soft curve passing through this point. This will be the actual neckline.

Now on front square down from neckline bottom point to 2cm past hip level, then square left until side seam and close the shape. Adjust back length the same way.

Divide back slash line (marked in red) by 3,5 as mentioned before. Half of the obtained measurement is measured starting from center back (to have a full scallop in it), then draw a notch and repeat the process with 3 times the full measurement.

Still using the same measurement, draw a scallop on a separate piece of paper (3 to 5cm high), making sure it is symmetric (fold paper in half to check the shape).

Use the scallop stamp and draw the repeated shape as shown on both front and back.

You’ll start from center back with half scallop, and end with a full shape before back side seam, then start with a new scallop from front side seam. End with a last full scallop at front overlap.

Get the basic sleeve and draw the cuff with built-in placket:

• first, draw a line 3cm below sleeve hemline
• then draw a line 2cm above hemline – this way you get a 5cm wide cuff
• approx at 1/3 of back sleeve hemline draw the placket 8 to 10cm long and 2cm wide, starting from cuff uppermost line and ending with a triangle shape.

Trace separate copies for sleeve (including placket line) and cuff+placket, moving last section of back cuff past its front section (it’s harder to explain than to do it, if you check the image!). Cuff grainline is parallel to its longer side.