Trace a copy of your trouser block – we suggest 2 to 4cm wearing ease at waist, 4cm at hips, and straight leg. Highlight hip, crotch and knee levels.

Make sure length is to the ground.

Do the following steps on both front and back:

• first, draw a fold line 5cm above bottom line
• then drop crotch by 1 to 1,5cm, and widen from inseam at crotch level 0,5cm on front and 1 to 1,5cm on back. Redraw inseam line slightly curved, blending to original line halfway between knee and fold lines
• work on side seam: add 10 to 16cm at knee level, then draw a strong curve blending to original side seam 10 to 12cm below waist level and approx 5cm above fold line. Make sure curves are similar on back and front, as sewing will be easier and fitting will be better.

On back only, erase original dart and draw a matching one 4 to 6cm outwards. This new dart represents the end of manipulated darts (to be done in step 7-8).

Cut through the new lines.

Focus on front. Erase original dart and discard a matching amount from center front, with a straight line that blends to crotch line approx at hip level.

Draw pocket opening (red line) by dropping 10 to 12cm and moving right 11 to 14cm, then draw the curve.

Draw pocket bag (red line) squaring down from waistline 3 to 4cm past pocket opening, then draw bottom line of pocket bag 5 to 7cm deeper than pocket opening at side and approx 5cm further towards center front.
Tip: you can put a hand on your pattern – mimic the gesture of putting a hand in your pocket, and roughly draw the pocket bag to make sure it’s comfortable in width, then adjust the shape.

Draw the coin pocket (blue line) as a small square/rectangle approx 5 to 8cm wide/long. It usually just puckers from pocket opening.