Scar :) pencil dress


Let's draft the pattern for this pencil dress.

It features interesting style lines and dart manipulations. It's a good opportunity to learn about dart manipulation techniques or refresh your knowledge!

Two full lessons out of the 12 in our Basic Block course are completely dedicated to different techniques for manipulating darts into different style elements (cuts/slash lines, volumes as darts and pleats and so forth). Check all details about the course here.

To draft this pattern, start from a basic block with darts and small wearing ease.

Step 1

Start from a copy of back and front.

Shorten shoulder line on front only by moving shoulder point inwards by 2 to 3cm. Redraw front armhole changing its upper part.

Draw the curved slash line above bust – as a sweet heart neckline – then change shoulder dart: make it 1cm deeper at neckline, blending to the original points at shoulder and bust.

Step 2

Cut through the sweetheart line, then close shoulder dart in the upper front section.

Draw the underbust line and make waist dart 3cm wide all the way from waist to underbust, then change dart upper section shaping it as a rocket.
Match the pattern underbust measurement to your own underbust measurement (or give little ease).

Step 3

Draw the curved slash line at underbust and cut through it, then manipulate darts so all volume is moved to the underbust dart.

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