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Shirt dress with statement sleeves

4.5/5

Style analysis: shirt dress with high-low rounded hemline, hidden buttons and dramatic sleeves. Classic yoke, cuffs with plackets and 2 pieces collar.

Fabric: cotton popeline or any shirt cotton, taffeta, lightweight denim or twills.

Draft the pattern starting from a made to measure basic dress with darts and 10 to 12cm wearing ease on bust circumference - learn our method for choosing wearing ease and drafting perfectly made to measure patterns in our basic blocks course/module 1.

Step 1

Trace back and front separate and adjust length to knee line. Flare 5cm from sides blending at waist.

Erase both waist darts, blend waist angle at side seam adding a bit of ease, then on front draw a slash line from bust point to side seam 7cm below armpit. This is the line to manipulate shoulder dart into a french dart.

From center front draw a parallel line 1,5cm inwards and one 1,5cm outwards to identify a 3cm section: this will be button stand.

Step 2

Cut through the line to separate front from button stand, then cut through front slash line and close shoulder dart.

Draw new hemline by curving it upwards on back side seam (imagine the quarter of a circle with 8cm radius), then shorten front and button stand by 7 to 9cm and draw the hem curve towards side seam (here, imagine the quarter of a circle with bigger radius, something like 12cm).

Step 3

Trace copies of the new shapes and draw the yoke as follows:

  • on front, draw a line parallel to shoulder and 2 to 4cm below it
  • on back, draw a line perpendicular to center back 6 to 10cm down from nape point, all the way to armhole
  • on armhole, drop 1cm from the point you just found and draw a horizontal dart 10cm long.

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