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SewingLab

Milano

SewingLab

Milano

Shirt with front knot

Style analysis: cropped blouse featuring a deep V-neckline with collar and three-quarter sleeves. The twist knot at the front center creates a flattering fit and is an interesting detail, both for the style and for the pattern construction. The jacket collar adds further interest.

Fabric: lightweight fabrics as cotton or linen blends, viscose blends. A little structure is necessary for the collar but can be given adding an interlining (as organza, or knit fusible interlining) to top collar and facing.

Step 1

Trace a copy of your basic bodice with darts and 4 to 6cm wearing ease at bust circ. Trace the sleeve too.
You can learn our method for drafting perfectly made to measure basic blocks (contoured ones, and the ones with wearing ease) and for fitting them in our basic blocks course/module 1.

Shorten both back and front by 4 to 5cm, then on front draw a slash line from center front at new hemline to bust point to manipulate both darts.

Shorten cuff at elbow length or desired measurement, then draw a cuff 8 to 12cm wide and make it rectangular (widen bottom part of cuff to match top measurement).

Step 2

Here you see back shortened.

Trace separate copies of sleeve and cuff, then add 2cm button stand to cuff side. Draw a vertical line on back part of sleeve for the placket: classic position for it is at 2/3 of sleeve hemline. Line is 6 to 8cm long (adjustable measurement, up to 10 to 12cm for a long sleeve).

Now work on front. Tape both shoulder and waist darts closed and open a matching volume into the new slash line, then draw a line from center front hemline to side seam 5 to 7cm above hemline. Trace a copy of this new small piece.

Step 3

Work on front. Get the small piece copy and replace in its original position , then pivot on center front and rotate the piece in anticlockwise direction to have it past center front, as shown in the image.

Add 2cm overlap past center front in top part, then draw a curve connecting the new line to side point of the small rotated piece.

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