SewingLab

Milano

SewingLab

Milano

Shirt with statement shoulders

Pattern characteristics: high stand up collar and manipulation to create a double front that hold the structured shoulder panels. This design balances sharp tailoring with exaggerated proportions, making it a bold statement piece.

Style analysis: avant-garde, structured shirt with a high-fashion aesthetic. Key design elements as the shoulder panels, the stand up collar and the exaggerated cuffs create a dramatic effect.

Fabric: shirting cotton or cotton blends, lightweight wools, silk faille or taffeta would all be amazing fabric options. This style has metallic snap buttons.

Step 1

Start by drafting your basic block without darts – our method is fully explained in our basic blocks course/module 1. Wearing ease can vary from 10 to 14cm at bust, then taper just a few cm at waist.

Draw the shirt hemline 10 to 14cm below waistline, shirt hem measurement matches bust measurement.

On both back and front, widen neckline just a tiny bit (as little as 0,5 to 0,7cm along shoulder lines and 0,5cm on center front).

On front, center front line is marked in green. Draw 2 lines parallel to it at 1,5cm span to create the button stand (marked in red). Button stand width is 3cm total.

 

Step 2

Focus on back:

  • square down from new high shoulder point to hemline (green line)
  • raise 2,5 to 3,5cm from shoulder point, connect to high shoulder point, then lengthen the line outwards by 5 to 7cm for the shoulder panel (red line)
  • connect this last point to hemline, 10 to 12cm away from side seam.
Step 3

Repeat the same process on front:

  • square down from new high shoulder point to hemline (green line)
  • raise 2,5 to 3,5cm from shoulder point, connect to high shoulder point, then lengthen the line outwards by matching measurement to back to draw the shoulder panel (red line)
  • connect this last point to hemline, 8 to 10cm from side seam.

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