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Shirt with wide collar

4.5/5

Let's draft the pattern for this nice shirt - it's from the TV Series 'The Good Detective' (season 2 episode 16).

We agree on the idea that she always wears cool clothes!

The main characteristics are the wide collar and a buttoned sleeve. To draft the pattern, start from a basic block without darts and loose fit (we suggest at least 12cm ease on bust), and matching sleeve.

You can sew it in a shirt cotton as popeline or oxford or in a cotton-linen blend.

Step 1

Trace back and front, choose the length (you can make a shirt or a shirt-dress).

Add 1,5cm past center front to create button stand, then pick a point along shoulder line on front widening neckline by 1,5 to 3cm.

Draw the front V neckline.

Step 2

Then merge front and back at shoulder line and draw the boat neckline from the slanted line on front all the way to center back, dropping it by 4 to 5cm.

Extend the slanted line past the shoulder, until it meets back neckline.

The small area between the boat neckline and the slanted line is a yoke – it is needed to support the wide neckline and collar. Trace it on a separate paper, then separate back and front.

Step 3

Now let’s build the collar:

  • get back, flip it face down to match the neckline point on shoulder and have the whole neckline looking like a horizontal S. Make sure center back is parallel to center front
  • identify the line for boat neckline, then place a new paper on top.

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